When discussing skincare, there is a word mentioned everywhere like a panacea. It is a magical ingredient used not only in treatments but also applied to the face and even ingested. Although its exact role and effects are unknown, people make sure to take it simply because everyone says it is good for the skin. That word is collagen. There is an endless amount of content explaining the benefits of collagen, and products for ingesting and applying collagen are still pouring out.
Interest in collagen is growing day by day. The market for ingestible collagen is even projected to reach the 10 trillion won range by 2030. Interestingly, however, the heated debate regarding the efficacy of collagen has been ongoing for quite some time. Therefore, I will provide a clear summary of exactly what collagen is and how to effectively replenish it.
Before discussing the benefits of collagen, let’s start with the definition.
Collagen is a type of protein. While it is primarily mentioned when discussing skin, it is a versatile protein that works hard in various connective tissues, including bones, muscles, blood vessels, and teeth. Given that collagen accounts for 25–35% of the proteins in our bodies, you can certainly feel its importance.
What we need to focus on is the relationship between the skin and collagen. Beneath the epidermis, which can be considered the outer layer of the skin, lies the dermis. Collagen makes up 70 to 90 percent of the dermis. Collagen forms a structure interwoven like a net within the dermis, playing a role in maintaining the skin’s shape, much like the steel bars in a building.
A solid foundation is an essential condition for constructing a safe and sturdy building. Whenever controversies over shoddy construction arose, the cause that consistently became an issue was the omission of rebar. The same applies to the skin. To maintain firm skin, collagen, which acts as a pillar, must be densely positioned. Furthermore, due to its property of attracting moisture, it helps keep the skin hydrated.
Why Are Collagen Benefits Important?
Just like all components of the body, collagen has a lifespan. When a gap occurs, newly generated collagen takes its place. The problem, as always, is age. As we get older, collagen is directly affected. Not only does the rate of new collagen production decrease, but the total amount also declines.
What does a decrease in collagen levels mean for the skin? Let’s take a houseplant as an example. Once a plant grows to a certain size, it leans over because it cannot support its own weight. If left unchecked, its shape will be ruined, causing it to wither quickly, so a support stake must be used. The stake serves to stabilize the plant so it stands upright, much like collagen does.
Imagine removing the support structures one by one. The stiffly fixed stems would sag. The same applies to collagen. As the collagen supporting the skin gradually diminishes, the skin’s volume naturally decreases, and wrinkles form. These changes are particularly noticeable under the eyes, on the cheeks, along the jawline, and on the neck.
By now, everyone is likely aware that managing collagen is a cornerstone not only for hydration but also for maintaining firm skin. Effectively managing collagen can contribute to overall skin health.
Are the benefits of edible collagen real?
You have probably heard at least once that pork rinds, pig’s trotters, and chicken feet contain large amounts of collagen. It may sound like a lie, but it is a verified fact. The question is whether this collagen can be absorbed significantly. Just because you consume collagen does not mean it is fully delivered to the skin.
When we consume something, it inevitably passes through the digestive system. The same applies to pork rinds and edible collagen products. During the digestive process, collagen is broken down into smaller components, such as amino acids. These are absorbed by the body and used as an energy source or utilized in various forms by different organs within the body that require them. This means that just because it is collagen, it does not go directly to the skin.
What about low-molecular-weight collagen, which is leading the current collagen trend? The principle behind low-molecular-weight collagen is that collagen is pre-broken down into a size that the body can absorb efficiently. While absorption into the body may be relatively better compared to consuming it through food, the fact remains that it is not utilized solely for the skin. Therefore, further research is still needed to determine whether sufficient ingredients are delivered to the skin to increase collagen synthesis.
To summarize, there is certainly a possibility that ingestible collagen products can have a positive effect on the skin. However, it remains a question mark as to whether the effects can actually be felt.
The benefits of topical collagen, even you
Recently, cosmetics containing collagen are easy to find. There is a wide variety of products, ranging from ampoules and creams to face masks. But does applying these products to the skin actually replenish collagen? The answer is no. This is because collagen cannot penetrate the skin in the first place.
There is a rule regarding the skin known as the 500 Dalton Rule. A Dalton is a unit of molecular weight, and this rule dictates that for a substance to be absorbed into the dermis, its molecular weight must be 500 Daltons or less. At this point, you might be wondering how many Daltons collagen is. The molecular weight of collagen approaches a staggering 100,000 Daltons. Since the skin acts as a protective barrier, if products applied directly into the dermis were to penetrate, all sorts of impurities would inevitably get in.
There may be some who claim, “I have definitely seen the effects of topical collagen products.” Of course, collagen-related cosmetics can improve your skin. As mentioned earlier, this is because collagen has the property of attracting moisture. Thanks to the moisturizing effect, you may feel your skin becoming firmer and radiant. However, that is a different matter from whether the cosmetics actually stimulated collagen production.
To properly see the benefits of collagen
What should you do if oral collagen has minimal effects and topical collagen fails to reach the dermis? In fact, the method to properly experience the benefits of collagen is simple. You just need to apply it directly to the dermis layer where collagen is located. Of course, this requires the expertise of a professional.
Skin boosters are a representative category worth mentioning. These procedures promote collagen production by directly injecting nutrients or active substances into the skin. An example is Juvelook, which uses high-molecular-weight PDLLA to improve overall skin condition and volume. Retigen, a collagen booster injection that directly replenishes 100% pure collagen deep into the skin, is also an effective method.
Lifting procedures are also highly effective for regenerating collagen. Ultherapy, which delivers high-intensity ultrasound to the dermis and fascia layers to induce collagen production, is a highly effective remedy for lifting sagging skin. If you desire overall skin texture improvement and elasticity, Thermage is a good choice. Thermage works by applying radiofrequency energy that deforms and contracts collagen fibers to induce regeneration. Because the treatment is performed intensively on the dermis layer, it makes the skin even healthier.
Collagen is a key factor that determines skin health, going beyond simply looking beautiful. While cultivating a lifestyle such as a balanced diet and consistent exercise is paramount, seeking professional help will allow you to achieve healthy skin much more effectively.